BESPOKE TAILORING HAS 4 SUB TITLE:
- JODHPURI / GURU COLLAR SUIT
- THE RAW SILK / JACQUARD / TUXEDO / SMOKING JACKET
- TRIAL SUIT
The haves master tailor are making suits have reached their clients throughout INDIA and insure the most exclusive bespoke service with complete personalisation is catered.
YOUR SUIT SHOULD SAY I DO, EVEN BEFORE YOU DO
Your wedding day will be remembered as one of the happiest days of your life. However, the time and effort spent to organize the big day can be extremely busy. The last thing you want to worry about is what you will be wearing. That is where we come in.
SMILE FOR THE CAMERA.
THE HAVES is proud to offer some of the best bespoke or custom wedding suits, tuxedos or formal smoking jackets for grooms and groomsmen.
ONE FOR ALL..
With our private service at your disposal, we can set aside ample time for an entire wedding party to be fitted.
Please book your first consultation with one of our master tailors at least 12 weeks prior to your wedding date. This ensures we will have the time to measure, fit and customize!
Generally, we work with the groom (or better still, the couple) first and then meet with wedding party members. But the process is very flexible.
JODHPURI /GURU COLLAR SUIT
COMPLIANCE AND QUALITY
A Jodhpuri suit (Hindi: जोधपुरीसूट) is a formal evening suit from India as a western style sartorial attire. It originated in the Jodhpur State as a formal attire of the Rajput nobility in the synthesis of the Persian style Jama and the British cavalry riding coatee that was popularized during the British Raj in India. Also known as Jodhpuri Suit, it is a western style suit product, with a coat and a trouser, at times accompanied by a vest. It brings together the western cut with Indian hand-embroidery escorted by the Waist coat. It is suitable for occasions such as weddings and formal gatherings.
The material can be silk or any other suiting material. Normally, the material is lined at the collar and at the buttons with embroidery. This can be plain, jacquard or jamewari material. Normally, the trousers match that of the coat. There is also a trend now to wear contrasting trousers to match the coat colour.
ANGARKHA is considered the predecessor of the Bandhgala. An angrakha was a traditional court outfit in ancient and medieval India, specially worn by the Mogul nobility so that a person could wrap comfortably around himself, offering flexible ease with the knots and ties. The Angarkha was in fact a protection coat made of metal or leather during battles worn by a high ranking officer in the Mogul court. The Angarkha was modified to a closed collar coat and popularised as Bandhgala that emerged as a confluence between an Angarakha and the structured British uniform jackets, during the British Raj. The Bandhgala quickly became a popular formal and semi-formal uniform across Rajasthan and eventually throughout India in wedding ceremonies. A Bandgala is considered a product of interpretation of Indo-Western sartorial style.
FOR ANY OCCASION:
Whether for festival, a Wedding or simply for daily use, you’ll find THE HAVES bundh gala/guru suit will allow you to dress in style and confidence for any occasion.
With all the care and attention to fashion and detail that we bring to all our work, we look forward to an opportunity to serve you.
To discuss your needs or for more information, please contact us here or use the online booking link below, to book a consultation.
THE RAW SILK / JACQUARD / TUXEDO / SMOKING JACKET
WHY IS IT CALLED THE SMOKING JACKET?
First used in the sixteenth century, the smoking jacket had quite practical origins, as the name would suggest. Gentlemen would wear smoking jackets when smoking at home in order to protect their clothing from tobacco smell and ash. In the nineteenth century, Turkish tobacco became increasingly popular, and after dinner, men would retreat to the parlour with a cigar while wearing a smoking jacket.
While the smoking jacket has evolved over the years, it was originally seen as high-taste, luxurious loungewear. Traditionally made from softer materials like silk and velvet, the smoking jacket represented comfort and elegance.
In the seventeenth century, silk was one of the goods imported to Europe from Asia, India, and North America. It became trendy for wealthy men to have their portrait painted while wearing their silk robes. While remarkable in its sophistication, the smoking jacket would also provide warmth, as most homes throughout the sixteenth and nineteenth centuries did not have proper heating and insulation.
The smoking jacket has a long and varied history, stretching back as far as the early 17th century. An instantly recognizable item of men’s style, the smoking jacket has had a lasting impact on fashion. As it becomes stylish again, here is a history of the smoking jacket.
THE INSPIRATION FOR THE SMOKING JACKET:
The silk robe of the 17th century—a piece of loungewear rarely worn outside of the home—was the first incarnation of the smoking jacket. In the 17th century, silk was starting to be imported to Europe from Asia, India, and North America, and was considered a luxurious good. The smoking jacket evolved from these silk robes, which were typically worn by upper class gentlemen and gentry. Owning a silk robe was a symbol of status and wealth. In fact, it was trendy for wealthy men to have their portraits painted while wearing one.
A JACKET FOR SMOKING:
In the 19th century, the smoking jacket functioned according to its name. Smoking tobacco had become increasingly popular, and it became a sort of ritual that after dinner, the men would retire to the parlour room to smoke. In this context, the smoking jacket became an important feature. The smell of tobacco, and especially the smell of Turkish tobacco, which became wildly popular in the 1850s, would attach itself quite readily to garments. It wasn’t common for men, even of the upper classes, to have large wardrobes, and since fine fabric was still quite expensive, it was necessary to take care to protect the clothes they did own.
The smoking jacket was worn over dinner jackets and evening clothes in order to protect it from the strong smell of tobacco. During this time, the smoking jacket also became an acceptable garment to wear in front of others, although it was still largely something one wore in the comfort of their own home. They became shorter than the old silk robe that was considered loungewear, so that they could be worn during a meal. Additionally, homes throughout the 17thand 19th centuries, no matter how luxurious, did not have proper heating and insulation. The smoking jacket was a way to bundle up and keep warm, while still looking dignified.
METICULOUSLY CRAFTED FOR SOPHISTICATED AFFAIRS
Silk jacquard is a rare, delicate fabric and the hand embroidery involved in using this fabric to make a smoking jacket is time consuming and requires true artistry.
The jacquard weaving process is named after its inventor, a French weaver and merchant named joseph Marie jacquard. His invention consisted of a loom attached operated by a punch card system, in which each card represented one line of a pattern. Invented between 1801 and 1810. This machine allowed patterns to be produced quicker and more efficiently.
THE FASHION ITEM
In the 20th century, the smoking jacket underwent yet another evolution, and became a staple both in and outside the home. Smoking jackets could frequently be seen worn by the likes of Dean Martin, Cary Grant, and Fred Astaire in public, ushering in a new era of the smoking jacket as a signifier of the debonair and stylish man—someone who took fashion risks and pulled them off. Its adoption by celebrities during this era, especially by Frank Sinatra, who wore a smoking jacket both on and off stage in Las Vegas, meant that it quickly became a hugely popular trend.
THE CONTEMPORARY SMOKING JACKET
For a while, it seemed as though the smoking jacket had receded from popularity. While it was still worn occasionally, most notably as the stable wardrobe of Hugh Hefner, it largely disappeared from wider menswear. However, in the last few years, this has begun to change as well. Smoking jackets are becoming popular once again, especially silk jacquard smoking jackets, which look both stylish and sophisticated. In contemporary men’s fashion, where striking pieces are making a big comeback, the smoking jacket fits right in.
FABRIC AS UNIQUE AS THE FEW WHO POSSESS IT
Jacquard is a type of rich, elaborate fabric defined by the weaving process, and refers to materials characterized by intricate, woven patterns. It is a particular fabrication in which a pattern is woven directly into the material. Jacquard weaving allows almost any loom to create textured patterns by methodically raising independent threads.
Silk jacquard is one of the most luxurious patterns available, as it combines the utmost elegance of silk with the ornate detail of jacquard patterning.
A CHANCE TO GET TO KNOW YOU’RE SUIT, BEFORE YOU GET YOUR SUIT.
The most important factor in a custom suit is fit. This is why we don't believe in working off of pre-existing templates. Every garment is made from scratch exclusively for each client, therefore, we can ensure the proper fit for each individual body shape. The way we do this is through a unique fitting process we call the "Trial.
After your initial measurements are taken, we craft a suit made from a lightweight material designed to drape in a way that shows the changes that need to be made. We call this suit the "Trial Suit" it serves as a blank canvas to enhance your fit to ensure your garment drapes beautifully on your frame
Once your trial process is completed, your individual body pattern is on record and the reorder process is as simple as choosing the fabric and determining your styling details.
THERE’S NOTHING THAT CAN’T BE CONSIDERED. OR RECONSIDERED
Really, anything goes with a trial suit. We can keep trying and customizing until you’re delighted with the fit and style.
And, when the fitting and tweaking and experimenting is done, then we have a precise, custom template from which your actual suit can be cut and crafted.
And, we keep that personal pattern (created just for you) and we can use it again when it’s time to order another suit. This is a big reason why so many of our customers come back again and again.